Richard Mille

RICHARD MILLE

RM 11-05

SHOP

Built from a new material that combines “the lightness of titanium” with “the hardness of diamond” and looking like something from the distant future, this could only be a Richard Mille watch. The latest in a series of ludicrously high-end chronographs that began with the RM 011 in 2007, the RM 11-05 is topped off with a flyback function, a GMT indicator and an annual calendar. Richard Mille likes to describe his watches as “a racing machine on the wrist” and while watch/car comparisons are ten-a-penny, it's hard to disagree: with their sporty looks and bleeding-edge design and materials, Richard Mille’s inventions are truly the supercars of the watch world. Fittingly, this costs the same as a Ferrari Portofino.

£170,000; richardmille.com

Patek Philippe

 Patek Philippe

JEAN-DANIEL MEYER

Patek Philippe Limited Edition Commemorative Calatrava Ref. 6007A

SHOP

The completion of a corporate building project is typically marked with a glass of champagne and a few words from the company boss. Patek Philippe, though, has a history of accompanying key events in its history with a new watch. So it has proved on the completion of Patek's architecturally stunning new production building in Geneva, five years in the making. The Patek Philippe Limited Edition Commemorative Calatrava Ref. 6007A is limited to 1,000 pieces and features an unusual polished steel bezel surrounding a dial in a carbon-style texture, a nod to the world of high-tech. The caseback is marked with the brand's Calatrava cross alongside the inscription “New Manufacture 2019", denoting the year the company’s first departments moved into the building. Celebrations all round.

£21,700; patek.com

Audemars Piguet

 

DIODE SA - DENIS HAYOUN

Code 11:59 (2020 versions)

SHOP

Described by Audemars Piguet as "the most important launch since the Royal Oak in 1972", the tongue-tying Code 11.59 (as in, "one minute to midnight") had a lot to live up to on its 2019 launch. Using genuinely new case architecture and a crystal that curved on two separate axis, you could see why AP hailed it as radical a design as the Royal Oak's iconic octagonal case and integrated metal bracelet. Code 11.59 didn’t convince everyone, and a new-for-2020 palate of colours is a welcome update. The focus is on sunburst lacquered dials in rich colours including blue, burgundy, purple and light and dark grey. All come on hand-stitched alligator straps matching each dials colour and, like the original run of 11.59s, are intended for both men and women.

£41,300; audemarspiguet.com

Vacheron Constantin

 

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

Overseas Self-Winding

SHOP

As one of the oldest watch marques in the whole wide world (if not the oldest, but that's up for debate), Vacheron Constantin is on the top shelf of Swiss watches. That's because they're known for wholly classic, hi-spec pieces. But that doesn't mean they're averse to New Things, though.

Case in point: the Overseas Self-Winding in pink gold. While previously gilding other models in rose gold, pink gold is defined by a smaller copper content, giving it a lighter blush and a subtle newness to the Overseas model. Factor in an impressive movement too (the splendid in-house caliber 5100) and here's a watch that plays to the well-worn strengths of Vacheron Constantin.

£44,800; vacheronconstantin.com

Oris

 

ORIS

Hangang Limited Edition 01

SHOP

Without the deep blue sea, Oris wouldn't be able to make its big bold dive watches. And as such, the Swiss marque has a good habit of giving back to subaqueous charities. For its latest gesture: the Oris Hangang Limited Edition.

Released in tandem with the Korea Foundation for Environmental Movement, the Hangang Limited Edition siphons a section of its profits to a clean-up operation on the river of the same name – South Korea's second longest in fact. The piece is also as good as its intentions, with an automatic movement powering an emerald dial (inspired by the creeks of the Hangang's source) with an engraved caseback depicting the river's path across Korea.

£2,100; goldsmiths.co.uk

A Lange & Söhne

 

A. LANGE & SÖHNE

1815 Rattrapante Honeygold

SHOP

A Lange & Söhne is a connoisseur's watch brand. That's why it uses terms like 'rattrapante', confident that its clientele will know that it refers to a double chronograph that can record multiple time intervals at the same time. Taken from the French for 'catch up', it's a proper horologist's complication, the driving watch equivalent of a 600bhp V8 under the bonnet. And in the skilful hands of A Lange & Söhne, a piece of practical watchmaking becomes pure artistry, courtesy of a gold alloy that's said to be "considerably harder than platinum". We'll take their word for that.

£103,000; alange-soehne.com

Rolex

 

ROLEX

Oyster Perpetual 36

SHOP

A Rolex on the wrist is a serious investment. And thus, a serious watch. Though for all the commanding Wall Street presence of a big Day-Date, the industry's biggest marque is releasing watches that are a bit fun, a little bit more playful – watches just like the new Oyster Perpetual 36.

Quietly released just a few months ago, a tangerine dial on stainless steel is the off-duty Rolex collectors have long dreamt about, and better yet, it's no solo act: the Oyster Perpetual 36 sits within a larger collection of five watches in shades of candyfloss pink, forest green, sky blue and blood red.

£4,450; rolex.com

Hamilton

 

Hamilton

BEAVERBROOKS

American Classic Intra-Matic

SHOP

Once upon a time, the industry wasn't centred in Switzerland. American manufacturing had a stake in the watch business too, rigging small town Main Street aesthetics with big impressive movements. Hamilton was at the forefront.

Now, it's re-released a 1968 archival piece for 2020. It's got impressive Swiss innards these days, yes, but in terms of what's on the outside, very little has changed. And that's a good thing. For all the opulence and extravagance of a diamond-laden automatic from the Jura, there's as much charm in an 'aw shucks' midwestern sensibility.

£1,930; beaverbrooks.co.uk

Tag Heuer

 Tag Heuer

GOLDSMITHS

Monaco 39mm

SHOP

It is a crying shame that Tag Heuer's Monaco – a watch that paid homage to the race track of Le Mans – was decommissioned for around 20 years. But following a re-release in 1998, it's slowly become one of the marque's marquee pieces. In 2020, they've managed to improve it still.

As part of a trio that made slight amendments to the current Monaco model, a black dial on black leather is as close to dress watch territory as a racing watch can park and better yet, the in-house Heuer 02 movement has enough juice for over 80 hours of action.

£5,250; goldsmiths.co.uk

Esquire editors pick their favourite new and upcoming watches from big Swiss brands

 

The 59 Best Watches for Men 2020

The Esquire editors pick their favourite new and upcoming watches from big Swiss brands and under-the-radar newbies

By Johnny Davis and Esquire Editors

27/10/2020

VACHERON CONSTANTIN, ROLEX

The Esquire editors pick their favourite new and upcoming watches, including launches from Breitling, Audemars Piguet, Omega and Cartier.